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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.